A small ion pump is attached to the dewar, mainly to check that the vacuum inside is OK. On top is a red led bar display that indicates vacuum. This will typically read about 1/2 to 3/4 of full scale. If it's repeatedly pulsing upscale and the system is cryogenically cold, the vacuum's bad and the dewar should be pumped. This pulsing condition is also seen when the dewar is warm, even after pumping. You probably don't want to let this condition persist for long periods or you'll wear out the pump.
The ion pump is run off a power brick plugged into a socket on the telescope. Just plug it in.
On startup,you'll most likely see the pulsing scale for a while, at least until the system has been cold for some time. If it doesn't settle after an hour or so of cooling, get technical help. If you don't see anything and you've checked the power connections (perhaps even checking that there's voltage at the output connector), try tapping gently the lower part of the ion pump, just above the right angle bend (not the electronics cylinder) with the handle end of a small screwdriver to get it started.
This box opens and closes the shutter. Just plug it in (does it have a power switch?).
The camera controller is in a large black box on the telescope tube, west side. It contains a power supply that looks exactly like a spectrograph power supply (they're interchangable). Also inside is the Forth microcontroller and other camera stuff (Connie's things). A fiber optic cable carries data to the patch panel on the wall and larger cables go to the saddlebag. There's also a telephone cable that goes to the Xyplex terminal server.
Before power-up, double-check that the cables from the dewar to the saddlebag and from saddlebag to the controller box are secure. You should also check that the data fiber is in place and not bent severely and that the telephone wire is securely in place.
You'll need to do a little climbing to get to the on/off switch, located near the power cable. Turn it on. If it's quiet in the dome you'll hear the fans start up. Shine a flashlight on the LCD voltmeter on the front panel to see if it's alive (all the normally-on lights are probably taped over). If you're really interested, twist the selector knob to check all the voltages.
The first thing to do might be to check that communications are working with a cc tcheck or something (and note that the temperature is OK). Then do an iack to get the latest numbers into the controller. If the CCD is cold, initialize it with mop. You should get what looks like a bias frame from this. If the CCD is warm, follow these instructions to set up the CCD for cooling and starting the CryoTiger.