P U B L I C P O
L I C Y A N D I N T E R N A T I O N A
A F F A I R S
"Matters of Taste"
The recipes that follow are adaptations from other cooks'
formulas, and in
one case, a recipe entirely my own. Cooks generally know that
ovens are not
all the same, and such prescriptions as "medium onion" and "
can mislead. These recipes will work; but every cook will want to
and adapt. I hope that they are useful.
(adapted from Gloria Bley Miller)
(About 20 servings)
|6 slices fresh ginger root
||2 tablespoons sugar
|4 scallion stalks
||1-1/2 teaspoons salt
|3 cups soy sauce
||1/2 teaspoon pepper
|1 cup sherry
||1 turkey (ca. 16 lbs)
|10 cups water
||1 tablespoon sesame oil
|1 head lettuce
||6 star anise
1. Slice ginger root and trim scallion stalks; combine in
a large, heavy
saucepan with regular soy sauce, sherry, water, sugar, star
anise, salt and
pepper. Bring to a boil.
2. Wipe turkey with a damp cloth and lower into pan.
Bring to boil
again; then simmer, covered, 45 minutes, turning once or twice
for even coloring.
Meanwhile, heat oven to 350 degrees.
3. Transfer bird and some of its stock to a roasting pan.
hour, basting with stock at 10-minute intervals.
4. Sprinkle bird with sesame oil. Turn oven up to 450
bird brown thoroughly (10-15 minutes more); then remove and let
5. Shred lettuce and arrange on a serving platter. With
chop turkey, bones and all, in bite-size pieces. Arrange over
I did not chop up, but instead sliced, the breast meat, as in
conventional American usage. Of course Chinese foods are most
so that they can be taken from a main dish without anyone needing
SALT-PEPPER CURED TURKEY|
1 teaspoon Szechuan peppercorns
1. Measure peppercorns into small frying pan and cover
4-1/2 tablespoons salt
1 small turkey, about 6 lbs.
Set pan over very low heat and roast for about
until peppercorns are smoking a little and salt is slightly
browned, shaking pan and
occasionally tossing salt and pepper with a spatula.
Pour mixture into a dish to cool.
2. Rinse and drain turkey and its neck and giblets.
Place turkey in a shallow pan or container and
miscellaneous parts around it. When salt mixture is cool enough
to handle, rub it
all over bird thoroughly, inside and outside, particularly over
meaty breasts, thighs
Roll neck and giblets in salt that has been
shaken into the
Cover pan securely with aluminum foil and
refrigerate for 7
days -- yes, that's right, she says 7 days -- turning turkey a
few times for even
3. Drain and discard liquid and brush off surface
Rinse and dry pan and replace bird in it,
Set up a steaming pot - large roasting pan or
Place turkey pan on rack, cover, and steam for
over high heat,
replenishing water every 10-15 minutes to maintain vigorous
Turn off heat and let turkey sit tightly
covered, for 15
Stick wooden spoon or pair of chopsticks
through its cavity,
lift turkey up
to drain a little, then place it, plus neck and giblets, on a
Strain and save juice for cooking noodles or
When turkey is cool, cover with aluminum foil
until thoroughly chilled before serving.
The key: Care to be given to steaming process. The
large, containing a substantial enough quantity of water to
steam, and deep enough for the steam to circulate freely over the
pan with the turkey must be well raised, so no water bubbles can
to dilute flavor. A kettle of boiling water should be kept in
low heat for replenishment. If the space between the pan
turkey and the steaming pot is tight, insert a funnel into the
crack and add
the boiling water through it to prevent the water from spilling
(2 recipes, one adapted from Charmaine Solomon,
and one from Jane Grigson)
Jane Grigson's Recipe
Peel avocados, cut into blender jar, or sieve through a
limes or lemon into halves, and cut one thin slice from the
each lime slice into three, or cut one lemon into six wedges and
Squeeze the juice from the rest of the limes or lemon, and add it
avocados, together with a tablespoon of the sugar. Blend the
produce a smooth cream, or stir the sieved avocado firmly in
order to produce
an even mash. Whip the cream until stiff, fold it into the pure,
and add more
sugar to taste.
2 limes or one large lemon
icing sugar (powdered sugar)
5 fl oz. Heavy cream
Divide between six glasses and chill two hours. Decorate
with the wedges,
serve with shortbread fingers.
Charmaine Solomon's Recipe
3 large fully ripe avocados
Cut avocados in halves lengthwise, remove seeds and
Scoop pulp from shells and mash smoothly with a fork. Add sugar
to taste and
stir in the cream. Put into serving bowl, return seeds to the
closely with plastic wrap, and chill before serving.
caster sugar (i.e., fine or powdered) to taste
1 cup cream (I think heavy)
dash of rum, optional
The seeds keep the pulp from darkening. Don't ask me how,
or why -- but
do, especially if the plastic wrap shuts out all air, and is on
the surface of
Add if desired sweetened whipped cream on top, and/or
decorate with thin
slices of avocado with lemon juice squeezed on them, added at the
Rum can be beaten into the mixture when the avocados are
first whipped, if
you like that taste.
My own take on this is... Make sure the avocados
are ripe but
firm. I like to mix the little Hess ones
with a couple of the large Floridas. I add powdered sugar and
but don't much care for the rum -- too strong for the dish. I
with the lemon and lime decorations; but a little lemon juice may
the avocado flavor. Go easy on the sugar; this is an easy dish
The seeds-in-pulp trick is astonishing; it will even work
COLUMBIA SALAD A LA CHINOISE|
(this is entirely my own)
2 chayotes (Sechium edule Sw., also known as mirliton, chocho,
and, in Australia, choko) (Nahuatl chayutli, chayotli,
Cook chayotes gently in water (ca. 20-25 mins.), cool, peel and
slice in 3/8"
1 medium unblemished jicama (Jatropha macrorrhiza Benth., or
Pachyrrhizus tuberosus Spreng., also known as gicama, gĦquima,
Peel and slice an equal quantity of jicama, halving the slices to
Mix together 6 tbs. Chinese wine, 1 tsp. sesame oil, 1 tsp.
sugar, a pinch of
red pepper flakes, 1-2 tsp Chinese vinegar, and 2-1/2 tbs. light
soy sauce. Add
if you wish half a cup of minced coriander; or a half tsp of
Stir thoroughly, then pour over the sliced salad; taste to
correct, and chill
for an hour or more. If the dressing is adequate, this salad will
refrigerator for a week or more. The quantities may be increased
These quantities should be just enough for two chayotes, and part
of a small
NOVEMBER 1998 TABLE OF CONTENTS.